Weatherization for Schools

Back in the old days I lived in Alaska. A cold part of Alaska where, living in a mobile home for a winter, I discovered that, at about minus 20 degrees and colder, no stud finder was needed to determine the location of wall studs in the walls (behind the faux walnut paneling) because the walls would grow a coat of frost on the paneling at the location of each stud. In addition, each nail head would be covered with an even larger cap of frost. It was a drafty, cold winter.
Perhaps your school is feeling like the mobile home this winter. Here are a few ways, on a shoestring, to increase what is referred to as human comfort while reducing your utility bills
• Start with caulk. On a day that is warm enough for caulk to set up (read manufacturer recommendations) caulk everything on your building’s exterior. You should be doing this once per year no matter what. If you have windows that operate check to see if they close all the way or not. Use caulk instead of spray foam insulation since the spray foam is usually not UV resistant. Check doors frames and the doors themselves. Walk around your building and on the roof, caulking roof and wall penetrations.

• Humidify. Adding humidity to dry winter indoor air will increase comfort more than any other fix. The added benefit to humidity is that it will decrease the spread of bacteria and viruses via the nasal passages. It will reduce that irritating static also. Building humidifiers are typically not inexpensive but are an excellent investment. No matter the type of humidifier you’re using, make sure you’re using an anti-bacterial/mold agent in the water. A note of caution: you need to watch to ensure you aren’t creating condensation problems by adding humidity. If condensation occurs on the inside of (particularly single pane) windows for instance, you’ll want to reduce the use of humidifiers until you get older windows replaced.

• Doors may have a weatherstripping gap at the latch mechanism part of the door frame, especially if it’s aluminum storefront. There is a door hardware plate that will help with air infiltration. Other weatherstripping issues at doors typically involve the frames. Since most schools have hollow metal frames, see if you can tell if the frames have been grouted. If not they are going to be leaking lots of air. Even though it’s messy, if you drill small holes in the gypsum board around the edge of the frame and fill the frame with spray foam insulation you’ll be helping the R value of the door. Make sure you know whether or not you have a rated door and frame assembly because if you do you should NOT put spray foam insulation in the cavity; grout will most likely be required by code. Are your doors thermally broken? If you purchase new doors make sure they are.

• The other issue to consider with doors is how well they fit in their frame. Buildings settle or heave. When the frame moves the door doesn’t always follow suit. If you have a hollow metal door and frame your facilities people will need to adjust the door as best possible. Install door sweeps and thresholds to alleviate the largest source of drafts – the bottom of the door.

• Roof insulation is the best and cheapest way to reduce your heating/cooling bills. Add additional roof insulation if you’re able. Remember not to pack insulation – it works by trapping air, if you jam the insulation in it won’t be as effective. Blown-in insulation works really well, especially if you have tight spaces but don’t use blown-in if you need to access those insulated areas, it will get walked on and packed down. If you can’t access roof cavities, or if there is no space to add insulation, then check to see if your ducts are insulated, both supply and returns. Check for insulation on upper walls between ceilings and roof decks. If it’s not there you should add it.

• HVAC – use multi-stage furnace and use equipment that will pre-condition your intake air. Newer equipment is so much more energy-efficient that older equipment, put your equipment on a replacement schedule. HVAC fixes tend to cost more but also provide big savings. Maybe this is one for your long-range facilities planning.

• Water heating – insulate water heaters. Boilers and water heaters should be drained annually to reduce gunk in the bottom of the tanks. Quite often water heaters and boilers are located in unheated parts of buildings. See if there is a way to reduce heating load on water heaters in unheated spaces.

• Maybe you have old windows, and maybe your windows are single pane. Older buildings with double-hung windows typically have a gap where the top and the bottom meet; it can be up to ¼ inch. Sometimes windows don’t shut all the way, or the upper part keeps slipping down. Old wood windows can warp, and old metal windows can rust. Determine where your leaks are using a lit candle you blow out, watching the smoke. You can buy “canned smoke”, you shake and spray the can. If you see a lot of air movement either caulk and/or install weatherstripping. Use backer rod if you have large gaps to fill.
There are companies who specialize in energy performance contracting. They’ll help your school district with the above energy savings initiatives and more, and they will structure a program where the savings will pay back the cost of the work. The link below has a good description of energy performance contracting.
http://www.energystar.gov/ia/partners/spp_res/Introduction_to_Performance_Contracting.pdf